Katherine Lewin wants to dispel the myth of roast chicken as dinner-party food
An interview with the Big Night-founder and former editor of The Infatuation on her new cookbook, her hotel-vice, the last movie that devastated her, and the sandwich that makes her weep.
The book is an extension of Big Night, her one stop (shoppy) shop for all your dinner party needs. Tinned fish, chilie oils, fancy chips. Olive-embroidered cocktail napkins, Sophie Lou Jacobsen cocktail glasses, and vintage salt cellars. (I keep a silver swan on my dining room table.) But before opening the store, Katherine served as the editorial director of The Infatuation ("a dream job," her words and mine) where she managed a team of writers across the country spotlighting restaurants in many major cities. As one of the site’s first editorial hires—back when it was still being called a blog!—she learned the nuts and bolts of building a brand. Meanwhile, her experience as a merchant at J. Crew in the years after college really laid the groundwork for knowing how to buy for and stock Big Night.
While talking to Katherine about the book—she’s one of those people who speak with such infectious passion that you can’t help but ride the wave of their enthusiasm—I felt my internal confidence rise immediately re: a last minute Friendsgiving. (TBD if this will really happen; I don’t think either of us condones impulsive hosting. But at least I know that now my Christmas cookie-swap party is sure to go smoothly.)
Below is our conversation, her restaurant recs, plus a watch-list I curated for her.
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Elissa Suh: I’ve known good hosts and bad hosts. My mom was always a great host growing up. But just having experienced that, I've found that I don’t necessarily know how to do it myself. Your book really lays it out. How did you get into hosting? Who did you learn from?
Katherine Lewin: I have a few thoughts on this. I grew up in Austin in the '90s, when it still had a small-town vibe. From a young age, I developed the mentality that if someone was hosting, their doors were open, there was food available, and people could come and go at their leisure. Of course, I wasn’t being invited to elegant dinner parties as a kid, but that feeling of “Come on over, we’ll be here, and you can have something to eat” stuck with me and shaped my approach to hospitality.
To me, hospitality doesn’t always have to be fancy or aesthetic; it just has to feel good. When people walk through the door, they should feel included and welcomed, without any sense that things are too precious. The mindset is simple: whatever you need or don’t need, please help yourself. We want you to feel like you belong. That goes for the store, too.
The other side of it is when I was eating in restaurants for work, the idea of creating my own dinner experience at home for friends really excited me. I became obsessed with trying to recreate that vibey, magic texture in the air at home and focused on honing my skills as a home cook. I got a lot of practice and confidence doing reps of cooking better for other people, which is so different from cooking for yourself.
How exactly did you learn the ropes? Did you ask family or friends who were especially good cooks or was it just going through New York Times recipes or your favorite cookbooks?
I'm sure my story is the same as many. It was a mix of the New York Times app, which I think just celebrated 10 years, and some cookbooks that were canon as I was learning. Marcella Hazan's cookbook was a big one. Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat for understanding what builds flavor. Dinner A Love Story is an underrated cookbook.
started it as a blog, and she’s also Cup of Joe's food columnist.What was the first recipe that you knew immediately was going to go into the book?
So the recipe didn't come fully formed in my mind, but the concept did. I'm obsessed with the fact that people say that roast chicken is a great dinner party food. That is not true. First of all, especially for people that are new to cooking, it's actually pretty difficult to achieve an excellent roast chicken. More importantly, unless you're a party of four or fewer, that is not going to be enough food—my biggest paranoia. So what are you gonna do? Make two roast chickens??
This whole idea of just casually whipping up a roast chicken doesn't make sense. That's how we ended up with the Party Chicken recipe, which isn’t just about the chicken, but also about everything that cooks underneath it, into a multifaceted side. If you're doing the work, let's get two different components out of it.
The last thing I'll say about chicken is my extremely objectively bad hot take: I prefer the breast. This recipe lets you choose whatever parts of the chicken you and your guests want to eat. There's only so much dark meat to go around, you know?
When it comes to roast chicken I also prefer the breast because if it's done right that's honestly the best part.1
Chicken breast hive, rise up. We are few, but we are mighty. Every time I post about this on Instagram, people are in my DMs. Let's be unafraid to be chicken breast people! I truly used to be ashamed, and now I know this is just my preference—just like the fact that I like a shaken martini, which is not correct. But it is my preference, and therefore, acceptable.
Do you have strong feelings on chicken wings? I’m very anti-wing and pro-tender.
Since I don't do dark meat chicken, the wing is kind of disqualified altogether. And, this is just my take, I don't get a lot of pleasure from eating at the bone. It's just not one of my happiest places—versus a chicken tender… I mean that's just bliss. A chicken tender is a perfect food. No contest.
If I'm gonna gnaw on a bone, I want it to be big, and for there to be enough meat to make it worth it.
We're very chicken aligned.
I noticed that you stress how this is strictly your opinion, not everyone else's. Your book is very much written in that same spirit—telling readers to change things up according to your own tastes.
Something that I really try to get across with the book is, yes, it's a recipe, and, sure, follow it to a T, but also, you can fully make it your own. I really do think everyone becomes a better home cook when they make that leap of faith to say, I think this substitute is going to work. Or I really hate this one herb. What if I try this one instead?
People get really hung up on the prescriptiveness of a recipe, myself included. When I was learning how to cook, I’d feel like I couldn't make something if I was missing one ingredient from the recipe. A cult of personality has sprung up around cooking and recipes and if a chef you admire and follow religiously is telling you how to make something, it can create a sense this pressure. There’s almost a fear that the dish won’t turn out well because they said it wouldn't taste as good if you failed to include this one thing.
As a fellow introvert, I was very into the idea of taking a Social Nap when hosting. Would you say having to be an extrovert is the biggest misconception about dinner parties?
I think that the extroversion thing is real. With my friend group, if they're coming over, I know I’m not getting rid of them for six hours—we're strapped in. I wrote that section to convey that if you're not up to talking to people for six hours, that's fine. It’s okay to sit in your bedroom for 10 minutes. It's your house, you're hosting, and you can do whatever you want. No one's going to think you're rude or antisocial. I want to debunk this idea that we should be jazz hands-ing for guests all night.
During the book tour, some common concerns came up from readers around not having enough space and how to cook inclusively for people with dietary instructions. My overall answer is that when people come into your home, they're automatically extending grace—whether it's for your small dining table, the limited space, or the fact that you may not have a complete set of dishes to accommodate everyone's dietary restrictions. Hosting can be overwhelming, but people as guests are usually just grateful and excited for whatever food you offer, in whatever format and on whatever surface.
One of your rules for hosting that was really inventive is that whenever you can have a bar, make a bar. What are some bars that you've done?
The bar concept is my ideal example of how hosting extends beyond just cooking; it's also about how you present food to your guests. A BLT bar is what takes the sandwich from something you make for yourself and eat over the counter to a dinner party concept, by adding this element of creativity and choice. There's something really fun about having all these options. We all eat bread, lettuce, tomato, bacon, but how could we get weird with everything else? It’s also an interactive experience, and who knows—and maybe you’ll meet someone new while you're mayoing your toast.
A few years ago my friend had a mac and cheese bar at his wedding.
That's amazing! If my wedding could have just been different bars and different stations that would have been great. Otherwise, spritz bars are a go-to for me. Bloody Mary bars when it's a brunch hang, for sure. Over the past few weeks I've been hyper focused on the fact that I'm not eating enough baked potatoes, so I want to make a baked potato bar.
I feel like the store reflects you, but are there times when you think, “I really like this, but it just wouldn’t resonate with my customers or Big Night?”
A lot of people assume that the founder or owner is the essence of the store, almost as if it’s designed just for them. But from the jump, I’ve been committed to building Big Night as something that exists apart from me and is larger than my own perspective. Of course, my influence is everywhere—from the products on the shelves to the copywriting and storytelling. But I consciously try to step back and think, “Would my friend enjoy this? Would my friend's friend appreciate it?” If it were just the Katherine Lewin store, it wouldn’t truly be Big Night.
Big Night isn’t here to dictate how we should eat or what constitutes good food or hosting. It’s really about what brings you joy, what feels special to you, and what inspires you to gather people around the table.
So substack Little Gems is something distinct from Big Night, too.
I came to it sheerly out of wanting to write again just for the sake of writing. I don’t expect anyone who comes to Big Night to want to hear my noodles and doodles about the little things that bring joy. Substack is where I can connect with people on a personal basis.
I'm curious, how did you decide to name your store Big Night? And is there a connection to the movie?
Of course! But the truth is the original name for the store wasn’t Big Night—it was Dinner Party. It was so clear and obvious, and I kept repeating to myself “the name is dinner party, the name is dinner party.” Once I really started developing the concept I was talking with a friend when she asked, “So you have Instagram already, right?” I didn’t, but the last time I checked it was fine. I don’t know why I didn’t grab the Instagram account right then. Then she pulled out her phone and showed me that @dinnerparty was already taken by a restaurant in Fort Greene that has now been open for three years. I was beside myself. It was heartbreaking because I had built this whole brand in my mind. The restaurant was in Fort Greene, and we were in Greenpoint—there was no way that wouldn’t be confusing.
“Dinner Party” was dead. it was clearly meant for someone else. I was mourning the loss of that name and struggling to think of alternatives. Then my mom, who is an insomniac, started sending me late-night emails. One night, she was watching Big Night at 3 a.m. on cable and suggested it. When I saw her email, it clicked for me.
I loved how the name felt when spoken aloud and the intrigue it carried. Plus, anyone who has seen the movie has such warm and strong feelings about it, especially regarding the portrayal of food and the joy of gathering around it. That was an added bonus.
I’m actually so grateful for the name that wasn't because the ethos of the store and book is that you don't need to have a dinner party to have a big night. A big night can simply be you enjoying cheese on your couch, alone. Looking back, “Dinner Party” might have been a little bit limiting in terms of what this is all about. Now, I’m just waiting for Stanley Tucci to walk through the doors to make it complete.
It has to happen at some point, right?
I recently met someone at a party who knows Tony Shalhoub's kid, and they mentioned the store to him. Apparently, Tony was gobsmacked. That’s number one. I must meet Tony Shalhoub. I must send him something.
🍿MOVIE SIDEBAR
How into movies are you? I enjoy going to the movies, and I believe New York City is the best place for it—just the fact that theres a Nighthawk, but then there's also IFC. If I ever want to remember why I live in New York, seeing a movie at a theater here will really do it for me. We have an abundance of different theaters for different experiences And there's still ones I haven’t been too. I'm dying to go to the Paris Theater.
What kind of movies do you like best? I’ve come to realize that I really love character studies. I’m always seeking out films that closely follow a character's journey, prioritizing character over plot.
✨ Here’s a moviepudding-curated list of character-driven films ✨
The last movie that devastated you: All Of Us Strangers
Surprised you: Rear Window. The clothing is unreal.
Made you laugh: Poor Things
A character you relate to: Cher Horowitz. Clueless has been my favorite movie for as long as I can remember and at every stage of my life, I have related to her in different ways. It’s amazing to see even younger generations starting to discover the film. Recently, I saw two 12-year-old kids on my Instagram feed dressed up as Cher. I texted one of their parents, asking if they were responsible, and they no, she just loves the movie!
What's languishing on your Netflix queue: The great white whale in our household that my husband and I have been trying to watch for literal years is Chinatown. it's become a running joke that we'll never watch this movie.
One of your latest products is a collaboration on sheets to hotelify your life.
Hotels are one of my vices. Some people may be into purses or shoes—and I love those too—but I love hotel rooms even more. I’ve spent a lot of time pondering why that is, and I believe a great hotel can truly transport you. And not just to the city you’re in. It’s about feeling like you’ve stepped into another corner of the universe. I crave that feeling of leaving my bubble and being somewhere else.
That’s why a staycation can be great—if you can find the right hotel.
Exactly! I became obsessed with bottling that feeling of being cozy and comfortable while stepping away from daily life, which led to the concept of Hotel Big Night. Of course, there’s no actual hotel, but what if we created a hotel experience at home? Isn’t that so Big Night? What could be better than lounging in your robe, watching whatever you want on TV, and eating your favorite food from bed? For me, that’s the ultimate big night.
We partnered with Far West Collective, a creative studio run by Liz Lambert, whom I’ve long admired for her work with hotels and the goods inspired by them. This is the beginning of extending Big Night beyond the dinner table.
Do you have a favorite hotel in New York?
I think The Standard High Line is really fun. I've done little one night staycations there….
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